Must love dogs

I am a dog lover, and being a dog trainer I don’t think that is a surprise to people when I say that – all though I think some people would classify me as more of the crazy dog lady than just a mere dog lover.  There is a secret to being a dog trainer however that some people don’t really think about – to be a good dog trainer you must love people.

People are the key to successful dog training – if they are uncommitted or unwilling to follow the training program then progress is not made and the dog will continue with its poor behaviour.  There is nothing more thrilling for me as a dog trainer that to see an owner increase their bond with their dog through training – especially clicker training where we build focus and attention as well as obedience.

As a dog owner, you have to figure out how to motivate your dog to be successful at training. For a dog trainer we have to think of ways to motivate both handler and dog to help them get to where they want to be.

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Puppy Problems – Biting

Everyone loves a puppy – they are small and cute, they love to play and cuddle. There is one thing that most people don’t love about puppies, and that is their teeth – to be more specific is they hate puppy biting. So I wanted to discuss the best way to stop puppy biting, and it is going to be simpler than you think.

There is lots of advice that friends and family are going to give you when you first get your puppy, they might tell you to yell “no” at your puppy, they might tell you to whack them over the nose as you tell them off. What they don’t tell you, because they don’t know, is that there is a chance that this kind of treatment is going to go one of 2-ways – it can result in the dog actually becoming more excited, and coming back for more or, and possibly much worse – it scares the dog and damages your relationship with your puppy.

So here is my three-step plan to reduce and eliminate unwanted puppy biting:

1. Walk away from and ignore your puppy – that is right get-up and walking away. Dogs do this to puppies all the time – if a puppy is getting to much for them – their first port of call is to move away from the puppy, they do not provide ritualised warning signals (baring teeth or growling) unless the adult dog is not well socialised or is intolerant of puppies. So this means if you are on the couch in the lounge room you need to get up and move away from the puppy. Go in another room for up to 30 seconds and then come back to play with a toy that your dog enjoys – any skin contact during the game sees you drop the toy and leave the room again.

2. Use a crate/pen and put the puppy in “time out” to help calm him down – puppies get excited at the most inconvenient times, if he is being too excited and this is leading to hard and persistent biting, remove your frustration by putting him in a safe and comfortable area, with a Kong with cream cheese in it to lick out – and take the time to relax yourself. Once you have both calmed down then later you can come back to playing. Remember “time out” isn’t really a punishment – no dog is going to sit there and think about what they have done like we expect a child to do – it is an opportunity for a break and to stop the behaviour from being repeated and escalating – and for people to reassess if need be.

3. Finally and in conjunction with the above, we teach an exercise I call “dancing phalanges” (fingers). It is really straight forward and very simple – hold your hand about 30 cm from your dog’s muzzle and reward them with a small tasty treat if they don’t bite. Repeat a few times and then you can start wiggling your fingers and again reward for not biting. We reward them to let them know that they are doing the right thing if they do not bite hands or fingers as we are gradually making them more tempting to his puppy ways (wiggling fingers, etc).

So ideally first you want to let your puppy know: Hey buddy, this biting thing you are doing because you want me to play with you, isn’t working for you – so I am outta here! Then you are saying: I get it your excited, how about we give you something else to do in a nice safe, comfortable, relaxing place. Finally, you are actually teaching your dog it is much better to have some self-control – because it really pays off.

Most importantly, when using the 3 steps, is to remain consist – put the plan in place and stick to it, and you will achieve success.

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Top Tips for Toilet Training

Got a new puppy, or an older dog that is pooping or peeing where they are not supposed to? Getting frustrated that your toilet training is getting you nowhere? Almost given up altogether? Check out my top tips for helping your pet overcome toileting problems.

1. Keep ’em out of trouble – When a puppy (or older dog) is learning where to go, they aren’t going to get it straight away. They aren’t horrified if there is pee next to their bed – or in their bed. They aren’t going to be upset if they stand in a poop. For dogs this kind of icky mess is generally a sniffing, licking or eating opportunity. So since you are going to get upset if your dog pees on your bed or you stand on a poop, be proactive and put Fido somewhere they can’t get in trouble. Set up a special Puppy Area, a pen or an easy to clean space – where if there is an accident, it doesn’t have to be the end of the world.

2. Write it down – That’s right, you need to keep a toilet training diary – cover date, time, what, where. This can help uncover a pattern, highlight a time when the dog is toileting so you can adjust your outside times.

3. Consistency is key – if you are not playing, pampering or patting your pet, put them away – simple right? If you have trouble being consistent with this simple rule then you will have trouble toilet training your dog. It is your job to set your dog up to be successful as possible in this routine – be consistent.

4. Reward on completion – so you’re out in the yard, and finally your little puppy is on the job, they have started toileting and you say “good dog”, and your puppy runs over to you to grab a treat. You then come inside and they pee on the rug… what the..? The odds are that you actually stopped the puppy from going to the toilet and they had some stuff left over. So keep quiet and wait for your puppy to finish toileting before praise and reward.

5. Double Check with your Vet – If your dog is peeing a lot, it is time to rule out medical problems such as urinary tract infection. It is always better to be safe than sorry.

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5 Ways to socialise your puppy without them touching ground.

The struggle for new puppy owners is how to socialise their young puppy – they are told that they can never take their puppy outside, because they are unvaccinated, and there is a risk of them getting sick.  At the same time, they are missing out on the best time to get their dog socialised to the outside world.  The most concerning illness that can occur to puppies that are not fully vaccinated is Parvo (Canine Parvovirus), which can make puppies very sick and is fatal if left untreated.  This illness is spread through faecal matter, lives in the soil and can remain in the soil for up to 5 years.  Impossible to detect, it enters the dog’s body through the contact with their paws on the infected ground.

Now every year, vastly more dogs die (through euthanasia) due to lack of socialisation than do through parvovirus, so socialisation should not be ignored or put on the back burner.  There are things you can do to get your puppy out and about while minimising the risk of exposure to diseases.  Here are 5 that you can try with your dog:

  1. A stroller: I know people are going to look at you like you aren’t all there – but really a stroller can help your puppy see the world, get used to some sights and sounds and smells, while still being safe and secure.  The height of the pram means that your puppy can see the world on a more level playing field, and not a world of boots and ankles – which can only help with confidence.
  2. Your Car:  Yep, your puppy gets to see lots of the world in your car, both when it it moving and when it is parked.  You can take them to the shops to people watch, you can sit in a park and watch dogs and kids run around.  All the while you are in the comfort of your car – reinforcing calm behaviours and socialising your puppy.
  3. Your Lap: Your puppy can sit on your lap at a cafe! Sure not practical for all puppies but suitable for most from early on.  Ignoring some people, being pat by others, having a good time.
  4. A Trolley: Last year Bunnings announced that dogs are welcome in their store! I think that going to a store is a neat idea for puppy socialisation, you will need to be vigilant.  Don’t let everyone pat your puppy, learn to say no to kids – even those who ask.  Let your puppy know you will keep them safe, but a trolley could be a good way to explore the store.
  5. Carrying: In your arms, in a crate, a specially designed carry bag or even one of those silly harnesses that strap your puppy to your body like a baby (don’t laugh the Marines strap their dogs to them sometimes too), you can carry your puppy around and explore the world together.

Remember no matter how to choose to socialise your puppy, if they are calm, happy and feel safe keep it up.  However if they seem anxious or scared or overwhelmed – even too excited, pack up and head home. Socialisation is not worth doing wrong.  Socialisation is learning to ignore random things in your environment, but it can’t be achieved in your lounge-room and backyard alone.

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Why you should take treats on your walk.

Over the years I have a number of brilliant clients who have done fantastically with most of their training but struggled with loose leash walking.  Their dogs were still pulling when out on a walk.  After a little powwow, I would discover that they weren’t taking treats with them on a walk.  What?!? Well, we know where the problem is.  

Some people said that they never saw a walk as training and we only use treats when we train.  Others have said it is to complicated to carry treats.  A good treat pouch alleviates the last problem, but the first objection needs to be addressed – every time, every time, e-v-e-r-y-t-i-m-e, you are interacting with your dog you are training.  While some training may occur in formal set ups – dedicating a block of time to repeating and reinforcing an action.  The vast majority of your dog’s training happens through your day to day interactions – including on your walk.

So I wanted to give you 3 very good reasons you should be taking treats (really, really good treats) on your walk.

  1. Tells your dog what you want them to do.
    The point of training with positive reinforcement is that we are reinforcing behaviours that we want to see.  The treat isn’t about feeling good, it is information.  Dog looks at you – “Yes” that is a treat. Dog is by your side – “Yes” that is a treat. Coming away from exciting things (like blades of grass, shrubs and other dogs) “Yes” you betcha that is a treat.  How could I tell the dog that they are doing exactly what I want them to do, without providing that clear information?  Why wouldn’t I pay them for a job well done?
  2. Gets their attention on you
    What is your perceived value on a walk?  There is a lot to compete with in the environment when you are on a walk – things to sniff, stuff to watch, more things to sniff.  It is normal for your dog to only focus on one thing at a time, if he is busy sniffing, then he is busy not listening to you.  Carrying food increases your value – you become a better option to pay attention too. I know this will make some people unhappy to hear, “but my dog should do it because he respects me”, don’t take it personally – you are fighting instinct, I just want your dog to turn at look at you on occasion while you are walking, and for you to say – “good job for noticing that I am alive, have a treat”
  3. Let’s them know that scary things are actually ok
    Here is the big thing this is the most important reason to carry treats with you on a walk.  Walking around your neighbourhood can be a gauntlet of over aroused barking dogs, whose only entertainment in their entire life is waiting for the next dog to walk past their front yard.  This can lead to your dog, becoming scared, barking back, becoming reactive and more.  The simple act of taking treats with you on a walk means that you can let your dog know that “Barkers make Treats happen”  if a dog bark and your dog gets a treat – then a magical process is happening in their brain.  An association is being made that good thing happen when a dog barks at you, stress can be minimised and your dog learns to ignore other dogs that are barking at them.  This can also be applied when you pass other dogs – let them walk past and reward your dog for ignoring them.  Now there are lots of little nuances to this process, distance, timing, stress levels all must be balanced to be successful.  Older dogs with a pattern with reactivity will take longer to work with.  This simple process, however, can change how your dog feels about going for a walk and make the whole situation more pleasant for both of you.

 

So do yourself a favour, grab your treat pouch, fill it with high-value goodies and then pop your leash on your dog to go out for your walk.

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Living with Litter Mates

Often in class people arrive with not just one, but 2 puppies – mostly they are litter mates, sometimes they have purchased from 2 different litters.  Before I dive into this subject, I want to give you a confession – I have had litter mates too, as a young and eager new home owner, before I knew anything about dogs and dog training, I purchased 2 cocker spaniel puppies – one boy and one girl.  I made all the mistakes that I want you to avoid, luckily however, there was never any aggression that developed between my pair – that was purely temperament – luck of the draw.

You can find plenty of information online about how buying litter mates is a pretty poor decision – some trainers refuse to have litter mates in the same class they are convinced that it they will be ravaging messes in no time flat.  The reality is that many dog owners have litter mates and have zero issues.  There has to date been NO research into this topic – all “evidence” is anecdotal and based on the experiences of those who work with people and their pets, this can be slightly biased of course, because generally trainers only get to see the problem dogs – not the families that have managed to raise 2 litter mates successfully.

But there are some steps that you can take to ensure help reduce your chances of “litter-mate syndrome” effecting your home:

1. Do things separately with your dogs
That means take one out and leave one at home.  Go outside and play ball with one – and leave the other one inside.  I hear you say “but Jen, the other one will cry”, and I say to you that 1. it is ok for them to cry as long as they settle quickly, 2. give the neglected puppy a bone to chew on or a kong filled with tasty food they will be too busy to notice you have gone.

Please, please, please keep them occupied and accepting of being alone – they may need this skill one day, so it is best to start practising right now.  Keep initial separations short and sweet and increase the length of your absences slowly.

2. Train Separately
If I had a dollar for each time I heard “but it is so hard to train them together” – well that is because you are not supposed to, not at first any how.  There is a old dog training saying that 2 dogs is 3 times the work – because you have to train each dog individually and then together.  When you train them together it can feel like you are starting from scratch.  They will egg each other on, get in each others face, and make your job seem really hard.  As per usual if you push through the chaos it will begin to come together, so make it short and sweet.

3. Make your bond important 
I live with 4 dogs at the moment, and my philosophy is that my relationship with each individual dog is what matters.  I am where most of the good stuff comes from toys, treats, food, adventure – and beyond that as long as everyone feels safe I am not all that concerned with their relationship to each other.  As with the majority of modern dog trainers, I know that the old Pack Leader myth is long disproved.  Dogs social structure is very fluid, so there is no need to favour one dog because their is no hierarchy.  I want you to be your dogs main imprint – not the other puppy, because you know how the world works and the other puppy doesn’t.

4. Give them space
Allow them to have time apart when you are not paying attention to them as well.  All dogs should be allowed to have restful alone time.  Time in their crates, space to be themselves.  Again we are practicing for the unforeseen events of the future – one dog may be at the vet, you may be at work and the other dog needs to know how to cope.  They don’t have to be up in each others business 24/7.

5. Deal with issues as they arise
It is just one little squabble right?  Why risk this when early intervention can help you manage and repair your dogs relationship to each other.  Even if they are cozy 99% of the time – deal with that time that they aren’t so it doesn’t escalate.

If you want to know how to get your litter mates living happily together, why arrange a call back today?

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Foods to Avoid this Christmas

If you want to know which foods to avoid giving your dog this Christmas here is a list that the Australian Veterinary Association want you to know:

1. Chocolate

You know this one already I am sure, but it’s important to keep an eye on your dog at Christmas.  Maybe a well-meaning relative or a misplaced treat could wind up causing an unwanted Xmas Vet trip.  Chocolate can be highly toxic to your pet even in small quantities.

2. Nutmeg

I bet you didn’t know about this one, this favourite eggnog additive is actually one of the lesser known poisonous foods for dogs. The Australian Veterinary Association warns that nutmeg can cause dogs to suffer from tremors, seizures, issues with the nervous system and even death.

 3. Grapes and raisins

That means no pudding or fruitcake for your favourite pooch.  Both raisins and grapes, though, can cause acute kidney failure in your dog, so be careful not to give them a handful of leftovers.

 4. Avocado Skin & Seed

In Australia, where Xmas Tradition is often replaced with Salad and seafood Avos can be a popular Christmas food. But the skin contains a  toxin which can damage the heart, lungs and tissue of our furry friends. The hard seed can also be a choking hazard for dogs so is best avoided.

5. Macadamia nuts

This very tasty and popular Christmas nut can be toxic to dogs. Symptoms generally present within 12 hours and can include vomiting, hypothermia and elevated heart rate. My parents learnt this the hard way one year, a very unpleasant day for their Mini-Foxie Chloe, who was very sick – but survived.

 6. Onions

It’s amazing what some dogs will crunch into; onions can cause gastric irritation and anaemia if eaten in large quantities.

7. Turkey skin, pork crackling, sausages and fatty meats

One word – pancreatitis! These Christmas lunch staples are often high in fat which can all lead to inflammation of the pancreas in dogs. This can lead to a very unwell dog – so are best avoided.

8. Alcohol

’tis the season to be jolly, and we tend to celebrate the festive season with a drink or two.  According to the AVA though, even small amounts of alcohol can kill a pet so make sure you keep it out of reach.0.

Have a Safe and Happy Christmas with your dog/s and a fantastic new year.

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Puppy Biting – what do you do.

Everyone loves a puppy – they are small and cute, they love to play and cuddle. There is one thing that most people don’t love about puppies, and that is their teeth – to be more specific is they hate puppy biting. So I wanted to discuss the best way to stop puppy biting, and it is going to be simpler than you think.

There is lots of advice that friends and family are going to give you when you first get your puppy, they might tell you to yell “no” at your puppy, they might tell you to whack them over the nose as you tell them off. What they don’t tell you, because they don’t know, is that there is a chance that this kind of treatment is going to go one of 2-ways – it can result in the dog actually becoming more excited, and coming back for more or, and possibly much worse – it scares thGot a Puppye dog and damages your relationship with your puppy.

So here is my three step plan to reduce and eliminate unwanted puppy biting:

1. Walk away from and ignore your puppy – that is right get-up and walking away. Dogs do this to puppies all the time – if a puppy is getting to much for them – their first port of call is to move away from the puppy, they do not provide ritualized warning signals (baring teeth or growling) unless the adult dog is not well socialized or is intolerant of puppies. So this means if you are on the couch in the lounge room you need to get up and move away from the puppy. Go in another room for up to 30 second and then come back to play with a toy that your dog enjoys – any skin contact during the game sees you drop the toy and leave the room again.

2. Use a crate/pen and put the puppy in “time out” to help calm him down – puppies get excited at
the most inconvenient times, if he is being too excited and this is leading to hard and persistent biting, remove your frustration by putting him in a safe and comfortable area, with a Kong with cream cheese in it to lick out – and take the time to relax yourself. Once you have both calmed down then later you can come back to playing. Remember “time out” isn’t really a punishment – no dog is going to sit there and think about what they have done like we expect a child to do – it is an opportunity for a break and to stop the behaviour from being repeated and escalating – and for people to reassess if need be.

3. Finally and in conjunction with the above we teach an exercise I call “dancing phalanges” (fingers). It is really straight forward and very simple – hold your hand about 30 cm from your dog’s muzzle and reward them with a small tasty treat if they don’t bite. Repeat a few times and then you can start wiggling your fingers and again reward for not biting. We reward them to let them know that they are doing the right thing if they does not bite hands or fingers as we are gradually making them more tempting to his puppy ways (wiggling fingers, etc).

So ideally first you want to let your puppy know: Hey buddy, this biting thing you are doing because you want me to play with you, isn’t working for you – so I am outta here! Then you are saying: I get it your excited, how about we give you something else to do in a nice safe, comfortable, relaxing place. Finally you are actually teaching your dog it is much better to have some self-control – because it really pays off.

Most importantly, when using the 3 steps, is to remain consist – put the plan in place and stick to it, and you will achieve success.

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3 mistakes owners make – Coming when Called.

breed_3There can be no doubt that people can make mistakes with the handling of their dog, which results in a dog failing to return when you call them.  So here are 3 common mistakes that dog owners make that reduce or stop their dog coming when called:

1. Say it again Sam – “Sally come, come on, Sally, Sally, Sally come on – come here now, Sally!!!” does that sound familiar?  They say that the definition of insanity is repeating something and expecting a different result.  Repeating something 100 times won’t make it more effective or your dog more responsive if the cue lacks value.  The solution to this problem is to go back to the basics and begin adding value to your recall word.

2. Being a Debbie Downer – you’ve called your dog, they have come on over with joy and enthusiasm and then… nothing, zip, zero, zilch!  So next time you call them, they no that there is no value in returning so they would prefer to sniff this shrub that a pigeon pooped on.  That is right, I just told you you need to be more exciting than pigeon poop, you can do that can’t you? Go back and train how to being the party to your recall and find some enthusiasm to bring to this game.

3. Punishment doesn’t fit the crime – You spot your dog digging a hole in the newly planted garden bed, you yell out – “Freddie, com’ere” Freddie come to you and you continue to rouse at him.  Next time you go to call Freddie he fails to respond.  Punishment can be a tricky beast, with the right timing and pressure you can have an effective result but with the wrong timing or the wrong pressure it can really ruin something that you didn’t intend to.  Solution means being aware of your overall relationship with your dog, improving your value and learning when it is the right time and what, if any, benefit punishment can have.

Are you making these mistakes with your dog?

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